At first glance, βs Yakitori Swordfish looks like a typical first course at a fine-dining restaurant. Fish grilled to the proper char and tenderness. A precisely sliced Fresno chile pepper and tendrils of verdant scallion that pop on the plate. Two perfectly shaped dollops of chile aioli. Togarashi with pulverized Bugles. Wait, what? Yes, Bugles, as in the cone-shaped corn snack. Oh, and the fish has taken a swim in zesty Italian dressing, the kind used for marinating all kinds of meat or tossing with iceberg lettuce.
Freyaβs chef de cuisine, Phoebe Zimmerman, created the dish as an homage to their mom, who passed away in 2022. She used to marinate everything from pork to chicken to steak in Italian dressing, so as an ode to her, they thought it would be funny to marinate swordfish in the stuff.
Zimmerman finds fine dining funny in general.
βI think [fine dining is] kind of like a hoax. Itβs smoke and mirrors, right? And [the Yakitori Swordfish is] a play on that.β
Many of the dishes on Freyaβs menu, which is always in flux depending on whatβs in season and whatβs on the minds of the chefs, are much like the swordfish: creative, wild, and audacious but down-to-earth. Freyaβs fresh take on fine dining, along with its devotion to providing not just great service but joy for diners and its dedication to building an inclusive and welcoming dining space, is why itβs ΒιΆΉ·¬ΊΕ Detroitβs 2024 Restaurant of the Year.
The Making of Freya
Freya is the second restaurant of chef Doug Hewitt and Sandy Levine, who together opened in Midtown in 2015. The two of them βwanted to do something a little more extravagant, not only for ourselves but for the city. And doitβ¦in a way that we find elegant and unique,β Hewitt says.
Inspired by three-Michelin-star restaurants like in New York and in Chicago, they took what they liked about those places and ditched whatever wouldnβt feel welcoming at the multicourse, progressive restaurant they envisioned, such as suits for staff, smooth jazz in the dining room (see the end of this article for more on Freyaβs music), and the hefty price point. For example, when they ate at Eleven Madison Park, a restaurant known for its tableside theatrics and $365 per person price tag, they felt like they didnβt belong. They didnβt want anyone to feel like that at Freya.
In 2019, they bought a former National Postal Mail Handlers Union building (once a drill company) in Milwaukee Junction, a neighborhood north of downtown that was the center of commercial and industrial activity for 100-plus years, most notably as the hub of Americaβs emerging auto industry. But the building needed a full gutting. They either had to make drastic improvements such as pouring the floor and fixing the electrical system or had to build from scratch, Levine says.
With the design of the space, which incorporates Nordic elements, they embraced the DIY ethos, often relying on the talents of friends, such as Shaina Kasztelan, who hand-painted the arches to combine with the gray wallpaper that depicts a scene of a serene winter landscape βso that it looked like you were peering out of windows at nature,β Levine says.
βWe wanted it to feel like a super-decked-out version of a cabin in the woods [with candles, blankets, etc.], but combined with the feeling that youβre still in Detroit [with industrial elements].β
In the dining area that seats about 50, the first thing youβll notice is that there is no bar, and that is by design. Bars can be a distraction, and without one as a focal point, diners can direct their gaze to the big open kitchen.
The lack of walls between diner and chefs is intentional.
βEating out has so many different anxiety moments to it, whether it be price point, or maybe a wine you donβt know how to pronounce,β Hewitt says. βSometimes fine dining can be very nerve-racking and intimidating. And thatβs exactly what Sandy and I are not. That is the thing about fine dining, the walls that weβre trying to break down. It started with the thought of the kitchen. And everything after that just sort of follows.β
Hewitt acknowledges there is still some work to do.
βThere are a lot of people that we havenβt had in for dinner. And there are a lot of people that we still need to reach. β¦ Weβre just trying to improve, improve, improve, improve. And ultimately, I think thatβs what makes a restaurant a good restaurant, one that just strives to be better than it was yesterday.β
A Different Kind of Tasting Menu Restaurant
Many tasting menu restaurants donβt even show you the menu until youβre done with the meal. Unless thereβs an allergy, there wonβt be accommodations. Most of the time, you are going to eat what the chef has determined ahead of time.
At Freya, you can choose your own adventure with the prix fixe option that costs $95 per person (there is a grand tasting menu where you leave it up to the chefs to select your courses for $155). You pick what you want in each course, from starters to dessert, but the guesswork of how much to order or whether to share dishes is taken out of the equation. After you pick what you want to eat (and there are vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free options), then itβs time to sit back and enjoy every flavorful bite and drink. There are optional drink pairings: wine ($55), cocktails ($55), or nonalcoholic drinks ($35); you may also order by the glass.
Each dish is perfectly seasoned; nothing is bland, and nothing needs an extra hit of salt. Thatβs because each dish is built with layers of complementary flavors. βWhat you want is all of the things: salty, sweet, spicy, umami, crunchy, crispy, sour,β Zimmerman says. βI kind of get made fun of for that because all my [dishes] have like 17 things
in them.β
Zimmerman also likes to take food βon the edge.β The grilled Romanesco, with black garlic, chimichurri, and almond, is a perfect example of that. The vegetable is charred to the point that it looks almost burnt, but itβs βthe right kindβ of burnt, Zimmerman says. βThat char balances out the overwhelm of the umami [from the black garlic]. The thing that I love to do is ride the line, like βItβs almost too salty; no, itβs not.β β¦ It almost has the potential to go over the line, but it just rides it right on the edge.β
At Freya, the menu isnβt just Hewittβs or Zimmermanβs; the creation of the menu is a collaborative process.
βThese guys are the ones that run it every night,β Zimmerman says, gesturing to Andrew Peterson, Cameron Aramian, and Sous-Chef Cole Lauri in the kitchen as they prep for service on a recent Saturday. βThese are the ones that I want to impress with the food. β¦ And if they have a thought β¦ and they want to try something, we build it together.β
Zimmerman is overcome with emotion while talking about creating with the chefs, their hand briefly hovering over their chest as they stand in Freyaβs dining room. βIβm just extremely grateful to have that and to have the space with art and all that. Itβs an abundance of all the things that Iβve ever wanted.β
Hewitt says Zimmerman has a unique cooking style, cooking with βfierceness.β
βPhoebe cooks very different than most people that I know,β Hewitt says. βAnd I would be a fool to stop that growth and to not let Phoebe do what Phoebe does best. And that is cook with layers and cook with flavors and unique depth.β
While the dishes have a fine-dining aesthetic, they are still recognizable, whether itβs local Brussels sprouts with a shallot vinaigrette or French onion soup β or in Freyaβs case, French onion dumplings.
Lauri conceptualized several dishes on a recent menu, including the French onion dumplings with white cheddar foam, onion broth, and cheddar cheese cracker. The onion broth has a rich and complex intensity from caramelizing onions, adding sherry and stock, and cooking it for three hours, with Lauri coaxing as much flavor as possible from a simple ingredient.
The wine list is also approachable and familiar. βI want things on the menu that people recognize,β says Abigail Leedom, wine director at Freya, Chartreuse, and cocktail bar .
Bevarage director Tara Wongβs cocktail pairings are thoughtful and creative, with garnishes that match up with the flavors in a dish. The Rohan duck breast, which is seared, cooked sous vide, and seared again until the skin reaches maximum crispiness, is served with a bourbon cocktail infused with onion and fresh rosemary and garnished with fried rosemary mixed with tapioca dust.
The cocktail highlights the savory notes in the dish, including the luscious allium cream with herb oil. And in an effort to include those who do not imbibe, Wong has crafted nonalcoholic pairings that are no overly sweet afterthought. A cocktail made with Lyreβs Italian spritz, tart cherry, hot honey, and lemon is a standout among the carefully constructed offerings that donβt try to imitate alcohol.
Leedomβs wine pairings help to broaden guestsβ palates or break down preconceptions. For example, the pairing with butter-poached cod is a dry Sicilian red, going against conventional wisdom that fish must always go with white wine.
When it comes to selecting wines, Leedom says her goal is to highlight organic and sustainable producers, and the smaller the better because the team is trying to support local farms. One such pairing is the passion fruit dessert with an ice wine from Pelee Island, a tiny Canadian island in Lake Erie south of Detroit. Ice wine can be almost cloying, but its acidity marries splendidly with Executive Pastry Chef Cali Castilloβs beautifully composed passion fruit dessert.
Serving Little Acts of Joy
At 4:15 p.m. on a Saturday in December, lead server and captain Julie Trojan goes over the reservation list, which has nearly 80 people on the books for tonight.
As part of her job as captain, a role sheβs had for a few months, she does research on all the guests. There are a few repeat customers, and several celebrating birthdays and anniversaries. A local real estate agent, a college professor, an immigrant from Costa Rica who is dedicated to improving his community back home, and a group from a company thatβs a bit like βPoshmark meets Facebook Marketplaceβ are all coming in.
These acts of hospitality are another thing Levine borrowed from Eleven Madison Park.
Trojan says her job is to discover details to tailor a guestβs experience. For example, she found out a guest was a pilot and made paper airplanes that welcomed the couple when they arrived at their table. She also introduced them to the aviation cocktail.
βIt was one of those things where we hit it off so well. And there were all these little touches that we could do that made their visit just so much more special,β Trojan says.
General Manager Thor Jones says from day one the staff was encouraged to help shape what service would look like. Being able to have a say in how the restaurant is run has fostered a sense of ownership among the staff, and it shows in the cohesiveness of the friendly and attentive service.
A common refrain from several of Freyaβs staff members is that the leaders let them forge their own paths and speak freely. Jones says people are empowered to have a βlevel of entrepreneurshipβ in their work.
For example, Leedom is dreaming of hosting social justice discussions, bringing people together over drinks, both boozy and nonalcoholic, with an expert or advocate to lead the conversation.
Several of the staff members have also grown into their roles. Castillo worked under former Executive Pastry Chef Ben Robison before taking over the pastry department with her own team of two others.
βSandy and Doug trust us to do our jobs. And they donβt micromanage. β¦ Weβre allowed to create what we think will be good for the restaurant,β Castillo says.
βIβve worked at places where you do not get along [with others], and it makes working there miserable,β Castillo continues. βIβve had terrible owners in the past that micromanaged, and this place is not like that at allβ¦.We all get along; we all can joke and laugh and be serious together. β¦ Our job is to make sure the restaurant succeeds and that we put out dishes that weβre proud of, that we know the guests will like. I think thatβs pretty cool.β
Takeisha Pack, Freyaβs head host, wears a lot of hats, something she didnβt do at previous jobs.
βA lot of times you go somewhere and there is literally one person dedicated to one role. Before I came to Freya, I never even trusted myself to hold a tray of glassware, or I never thought I would be explaining the food to guests when we bring each dish out, and now Iβm doing all those things, plus more.
βFreya has really exposed me to a more in-depth side of hospitality and service that has furthered my appreciation for what we do in this industry,β Pack says.
Facilitator of Memories
As Zimmerman, who started cooking at age 19 when they became vegan, has gotten older, the chef has come to see their role differently.
βIβm not a chef; Iβm a facilitator of memories. I want you to feel like Iβm holding your hand at the table.β
And Zimmerman has literally held someoneβs hand at the table. A woman whoβd had a panic attack in the bathroom returned a couple of weeks later to eat at Freya.
βI went up to her and I held her hand, and she cried. We had a moment.β
Zimmerman continues, β[Food is] an opportunity to connect. Itβs an opportunity for people to exist in space together. Itβs the intrinsic nature of being human. Our spirits need belonging, safety, and dignity. Thatβs the thing that Iβm trying to do, is providethatmemory,feeling, humor, joy.β
Freya is located at , and accepts reservations Tuesday-Saturday. Call 313-351-5544 or visitΜύΜύfor more information.Μύ
The Art of Community
The dishes at Freya look as good as they taste, but theyβre not the only works of art in the restaurant.
The gray brick walls are a mini art gallery, showcasing different pieces created by Detroit artists. Last year, the restaurant launched the series of exhibitions during Black History Month with a show featuring local art heavy hitters such as Sheefy McFly, Phillip Simpson, Tony Rave, and Tony Whlgn, with a curating helping hand from emerging artist India Solomon.
βI wanted to make sure that we set out to be an example for what we would hope to see other restaurants do not just during Black History Month but all of the time, with Detroit being the Blackest city in the nation,β says General Manager Thor Jones, who oversees the rotating art installation and invites the artists to exhibit at the restaurant.
Freya puts up the pieces for free and takes no commission. To kick off a new selection of works, it will have a reception, which is an opportunity to invite people in who may not necessarily come in for a $95 meal but could peruse the art and enjoy drinks and snacks prepared by the chefs.
βWeβre out here building on the foundation that has continued to make Detroitβs heart beat β the Black people, the queers, the artists, the musicians, the food, the fashion, and all other things creative that make our city pump,β read an Instagram post last April explaining the intent behind the art series and announcing the next art opening, Abundance, featuring a βtrifectaβ of nonbinary artists: , , and Aire.
That show was followed by an exhibit of work by , a self-taught artist who started creating art to decorate his apartment because he couldnβt afford to buy pricier pieces.
He started off by painting celebrities such as rappers ASAP Rocky and Tyler, the Creator, and NBA All-Star Paul George. Then he transitioned into what has become a signature style for him, melting crayons and creating puzzle pieces to arrange on a wooden panel. His work caught Jonesβs eye, and over the summer, Palm, who has been creating art for three years, had a solo exhibition titled Men Deserve Flowers Too at Freya and Dragonfly, the restaurantβs βsiblingβ cocktail bar located around the corner from Freya with an entrance on Beaubien Street. He sold about 15 pieces when his artwork adorned the walls.
βFreya giving me the opportunity to give people an experience of my artwork, not just on Instagram β itβs huge,β says Palm, who one might call a βcorporate creative,β someone who has a day job but is able to pursue his passion for art.
The rotating art installation is just one of the ways Freya tries to engage with the community, something Jones says that Sandy Levine, with whom he worked at Chartreuse Kitchen & Cocktails, tried to do from the beginning.
βI loved how he wanted to come into that neighborhood and not necessarily just pop up and do their own thing but also include the surrounding neighborhood and the people in it.
βOne of the first things he mentioned was, βI really donβt want to just be a gentrifier,ββ Jones recalls. βHe was like, βI want to make it a place [where] everyone feels welcome. And the only way we can do that is to have ties to the community.ββ
Musical Accompaniment
One of head host Takeisha Packβs favorite things to do at Freya is to hand out a music menu, which includes a 12-page list of records diners can pick out along with their meal.
βWhat Iβve learned with the record book is that a lot of people have a lot of different tastes; some days weβll for sure hear Leon Bridgesβs Coming Home on occasion, or weβll often get a request for Outkast or Tupac. Itβs always different every day,β says Pack, who likes to throw in Erykah Badu, Anita Baker, DβAngelo, Fela Kuti, or Arthur Verocai.
The records are from co-owner Sandy Levineβs collection, Pack says, adding, βSo we all have him to thank for his expanded taste in music.β The neighborhood βhas an incredible history in regard to music, and we definitely wanted our dining room to reflect that,β Levine says.
The music menu is passed out only on weeknights. On weekends, the restaurant turns up its curated playlist, which isnβt faithful to one genre, but the βbackboneβ is R&B and electronic music inspired by the neighborhood, with a strong hip-hop presence and plenty of nostalgia.
βWhen the playlist is done right, you can see a few guests here and there just kind of grooving in their seats, and even though it might not be conscious, it adds to the fun of the night,β Levine says.
Hereβs a sample of what you might hear coming through Freyaβs speakers when you dine on a weekend:
- βStay Flo,β by Solange
- βN.Y. State of Mind,βΜύby Nas
- βKevinβs Heart,β by J. Cole
- βMoney Trees (Feat.ΜύJay Rock),β byΜύKendrick Lamar
- βNights,β by Frank Ocean
- βMore Than a Woman,βΜύby Aaliyah
- βATLiens,β by Outkast
- βP.Y.T. (Pretty YoungΜύThing),β by MichaelΜύJackson
- βPaint the Town Red,βΜύby Doja Cat
- βThe Light,β by Common
This story is from the February 2024 issue of ΒιΆΉ·¬ΊΕ Detroit magazine. Read more in our digital edition. Associate Editor Jack Thomas contributed to this story.
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