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When Western Michigan University graduate Kelly Swanson isnβt working as a physician assistant at Clarkston Dermatology, sheβs running a successful blog and TikTok account where she educates her readers and viewers on proper skin care procedures and products. These credentials make her a go-to person to discuss the intersection of dermatology and buzzworthy social media skin care trends. Below, Swanson weighs in on some of the internetβs most talked about skin care practices.
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Slugging
What it is: Slugging is the application of an occlusive ointment (think Vaseline or Aquaphor) at the end of a skin care routine. Sluggers say that this practice creates a barrier to lock in all the products applied previously, and results in smooth, glowy skin.
What Swanson thinks: βI think slugging became popular as a way of restoring the skin barrier when youβre using stronger ingredients like retinoids, acne medications, etc. I donβt think itβs a bad concept, but what I think people fail to realize is that if youβre using moisturizing brands like Cerave, which is based off of ceramides that are intended to restore the barrier, thatβs kind of already doing the job of what slugging would do. If people like it, thereβs no convincing them to stop. Itβs not horrible, but itβs certainly not necessary in the skin care routine.β
Buzzworthy ingredients
What they are: Ingredients like niacinamide and caffeine have been trending on social media for creating a glowing, smooth complexion.
What Swanson thinks: βTheyβre trendy. Those kinds of ingredients are often hiding in products anyway, like the Cerave AM and PM lotion has niacinamide in it. I think it adds good things to the skin, but Iβm not telling people to run out and buy that ingredient on its own. Caffeine is another one that people can use, but donβt really need to run out and get. Glycolic acid is one that I encourage for a brightening effect. I tend to just encourage the basics.
Double Cleansing
What it is: Double cleansing is the process of using an oil-based cleanser to break down any makeup or residue on the skin and then following that up with a water-based cleanser.
What Swanson thinks: βIt depends on how you define double cleansing. Iβll use micellar water before I wash my face, which I donβt really consider double cleansing. If youβre using two cleansers to wash your face then you are probably stripping a lot of the normal oils that you need and disturbing the barrier of the skin. If you want to use a micellar water and follow it up with a gentle cleanser, it wonβt have such an intense effect.β
Celebrity skin care brands
What they are: Celebrities like Hailey Bieber, Pharrell, and Jessica Alba have created popular skin care brands inspired by their own smooth, acne-free complexions.
What Swanson thinks: βPersonally, I think these are just buzzy because of the creators. I havenβt seen anything that knocks my socks off in terms of products and ingredients. I think itβs smart what theyβre doing; theyβre taking ingredients like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, etc. that everybody is talking about and using them. Those ingredients are good, but they might not be as impactful as traditional, acne-fighting ingredients.β
Ice Rolling
What it is: Another huge trend on social media, icing the face is said to reduce puffiness, minimize redness, and tighten pores.
What Swanson thinks: βItβs gimmicky. I know people love it because it feels fancy and it feels like self-care. Thereβs nothing wrong with doing it; I did it during quarantine, so I could tell my followers if it was worth it or not. I was very diligent about doing it, but did I see results? No. Did I feel fancy and like I was treating myself? Yes.β
Tretinoin
What it is: Tretinoin is a prescription retinoid that has gained a cult following on social media. Stronger than retinols and containing a high concentration of vitamin A, retinoids like Tretinoin help speed up cellular turnover to help with acne and anti-aging.
What Swanson thinks: βWe prescribe Tretinoin quite often and itβs a really great retinoid. You have to know how to use it in order to get the best benefits. Itβs not something you can just slather all over your face and expect results. Itβs one of the best retinoids available under direct supervision.
Facial Sculpting Tools
What they are: Devices like NuFace, which use microcurrents to tighten and tone the muscles in the face creating a more sculpted, lifted look.
What Swanson thinks: βVery similar to the ice rolling. I tried these devices as well, and I see how it can help with lymphatic flow and massaging any drainage out of the face in the morning, but itβs definitely not necessary for a routine.β
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