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Not too long ago, Very Serious Bartenders β pardon me, Mixologists β spent a lot of time convincing the public that their profession required a tremendous amount of training and skill and an inner well of talent.
They were right, of course: It really is a skilled job with its own set of exacting expectations. But somewhere in the last few years, bartending has lost its navel-gazing earnestness and stopped taking itself so darned seriously.
First, there was the espresso martini, the de rigueur drink of 2021. Creamy, caffeinated, and fluffy on top, the espresso martini was invented in the 1980s and has surged back into popularity in the last couple of years. Then came appletinis, grasshoppers, pink squirrels, and more. That tall, narrow bottle of Galliano, once so conspicuously absent from chic cocktail bars, has begun to creep back onto shelves for the Harvey Wallbanger and golden Cadillac.
Anything neon-hued and sugary is seeing a strong resurgence right now as bartenders play with neglected liqueurs and revive the poppy hits of the β80s in music and in drinks. That doesnβt mean that the drinks once popular in the β70s and β80s are unchanged by todayβs tastes, though. Many craft bartenders are using their advanced training and technical skills to elevate these once-simple drinks.
At in Eastern Market, co-owner Connor Payne tinkers with old recipes and gives them a more refined edge. The classic hurricane gets the star treatment with aged rum, passion fruit, and fresh lemon, rather than the red powdered sugar packet from Pat OβBrienβs that some bars sell. Itβs still visually eye-popping, though, with dual tones of soft peach and carmine red.
At Tocororo, Payne is βfocusing on finding sweet, easy-drinking, colorful βboat beverages,ββ he says. Boat beverages, or boat drinks, are another name for the juice-intensive drinks of summer fun. For Payne, that means βbringing back the nuanceβ in that style of drink and βelevating them a little bit.β His seasonal menu draws inspiration from classics like the mojito and hurricane while adding new recipes like the Lorelei, with gin, melon, pineapple, Falernum, and butterfly pea flower, which adds a delicate but rich layer of purple liquid to the top of the drink.
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Over at in Hazel Park, disco drinks (yet another name for the brightly colored drinks of the β70s and β80s) just refuse to take themselves seriously. So says Dustin Leslie, co-owner of the Key West-themed bar that opened in 2023 with an emphasis on laid-back vibes rather than precision mixology. One rummy concoction, its Rum Bucket, includes three different kinds of rum and is served in a plastic bucket, the kind you might find in a kids sand play kit, complete with a rubber ducky.
Another popular Eastern Palace Club drink is the Ecto Kooler house margarita, which ticks all the boxes for Gen X and elder millennial nostalgia. Neon-colored? Playful and just a tad whimsical? Named after a fundamental β80s childrenβs movie series? Check, check, and check: The startlingly green cocktail created by co-owner Mike Pierce reflects his love of the original Ghostbusters movie and the generation favorite (and equally vibrantly hued) Hi-C drink.
The goal of a boat drink, Leslie says, βis to help the party atmosphere. Itβs really an atmospheric drink. Itβs supposed to fit into a vibe where youβre hanging out.β For him, boat drinks, disco drinks, and retro drinks all tap into the nostalgic longing of elder millennials, Gen Xers, and baby boomers. The boat-drink experience, Leslie says, is a social one: Larger groups get together and dance or chat without thinking too much about what ingredients are in their drinks.
βIt has more to do with what theyβre doing and where theyβre at, more so than just the drinks themselves,β Leslie says. βThey usually come in fun containers, theyβre brightly colored, they usually are high octane.β
After several years of social isolation, many drinkers are hoping to connect more in person. Nothing against meticulously crafted cocktails that are the pinnacle of sophisticated flavor and combination, but sometimes girls and boys just wanna have fun. Boat drinks, disco drinks β whatever you call them, Leslie says, βthey bring back the fun times.β
This story originally appeared in the May 2024 issue of ΒιΆΉ·¬ΊΕ Detroit magazine. To read more, pick up a copy of ΒιΆΉ·¬ΊΕ Detroit at a local retail outlet. OurΜύdigital edition will be available on May 6.
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